BeachesQuiet coast, both sides

The south coast runs from Mirissa through Weligama to Tangalle, with Hiriketiya's cove and the quiet stretch at Talalla in between. It is best from November to April, when the sea is calm and the light softens by late afternoon.

When the south turns rough, the east opens up: the shallow bay at Passikudah, the long sands at Uppuveli and Nilaveli, and the reef at Pigeon Island, all clean and near-empty from May to September. The west coast keeps the older resort towns of Bentota and Beruwala, where the Madu Ganga lagoon runs inland past cinnamon islands and you can take a catamaran out at sunset.

Further north, ferries cross to Delft and Nainativu off Jaffna, where wild ponies graze a coral-walled island and there are almost no visitors. On the northwest coast at Kalpitiya, a sandbar surfaces at low tide for a private picnic. We can arrange a quiet stretch of sand and a seaplane transfer to the door.